INTERVIEWS: Academy of Art San Francisco: AW09

Filed Under: Fash-Luv, Runway by Cyn Passanante — Leave a comment

February 23, 2009

(Apologies for the lack of posting last week – I am learning that it becomes rather difficult to blog about Fashion Week whilst attending it.)

If there is one thing I almost always love in design, it’s independent and student work. I feel that these areas of design really have the freedom and the vision to take work into avenues yet unexplored, to really approach a genre with a clean slate and new eye.

The Academy of Art SF show did not fail to impress in this manner. Work showed a sense of fun. Forms stayed rather traditional and classic, with a strong nod to the past. Heather Howard’s collection dominated in this manner, with long, draping coats with the prim collars and strong swing of the 1920′s and depression era (and reminiscent of the direction of Marc Jacobs previous season).

Textile exploration was definitely the star of the night, most notably the knitwear work of Scott McFarland and organic and experimental pieces by Qianya Martin. Scott’s menswear was a welcome relief from the streamlined, subtle knits that have been dominating the market – his large, chunky hand-knit cardigans, knit pants and caps had a tactility and “big-ness” that felt confident and even sexy – a large accomplishment in big knits.

Where Scott’s work went with a strong step, Qianya’s work was an easy lope – inspired by the beach, her collection maintained a neutral palette and played on fabric effects that took their cues from the movement of sand and dunes. Fabric effects can often be a sticky field – delve too deeply, and the holistic style of the garment may be shelved. Qianya’s sensibility in this field is exquisite – effects and form perfectly married in a garment that feels both beautiful, captivating and comfortable.

I had the pleasure of visiting backstage before this event, and asking the designers to discuss their collections in their own words:

Scott McFarland