(Images courtesy of Wwd.com)

Most people think of Victorinox, they think of the Swiss Army Knife, Victorinox’s most popular product. But if designer Pierre-Henri Mattout has anything to do about it, we will soon be turning to this brand for their sharp fashion as well as their sharp knives.

Victorinox launched it’s premier fashion collection, 1909 Victorinox, in New York this past week during the AW09 Fashion Week. The show took place at the New York Public Library’s Celeste Bartos Center, and upon arrival it was clear that anticipation was high. A large group (myself included), were made to linger outside, invitations in hand, while those with seat assignments came pouring in. Designers Marc Jacobs, Steven Cox, and Daniel Silver were just some of the crowd out in attendance to catch this premier show.

(Images courtesy of Wwd.com)

The show itself was worth the wait. Sport Nouveau, futuristic fabric, and classic reinterpreted knits were the choice of the day, creating a “New Age Camper” style that felt as fun as it did functional.

Many pieces in the collection attempted to bridge the gap between sports wear and business wear, with a hip-hop vibe thrown in for color: cotton sweatpants joined with a posh sport coat, rugged plaid flannel was streamlined into a well-formed button-up shirt, all detailed with super-shiny bronze and silver high-tops, puff coats, and loafers.

(Images courtesy of Wwd.com)

Throughout the collection, a working class sensibility seemed to shine through: high button shirts and workman’s coolers paid homage to construction workers, tight leggings and square back packs to bike messengers, plaid shirts and boxy trousers to lumberjacks. These standard characters were given a new breath of life, and carried into the new modern age through form and fabric: even the classic duster was included in the revamp.

(Images courtesy of Wwd.com)

Sure highlights of the show for me where the prints and knit work dappling the collection: an ombre, ribbed print that resembled the amazing knit cooler and backpack cozies added a sense of wildness and ehtnicity to a rather straightforward show.

In closing, 1909 Victorinox’s first show succeeded in being beautiful and unique, with a futuristic blue-collar street style that is exciting and very, very fun. Really look forward to seeing more from this new label.

My pics here (Marc Jacobs was sitting opposite me, and is in practically every shot!):

(Apologies for the lack of posting last week – I am learning that it becomes rather difficult to blog about Fashion Week whilst attending it.)

If there is one thing I almost always love in design, it’s independent and student work. I feel that these areas of design really have the freedom and the vision to take work into avenues yet unexplored, to really approach a genre with a clean slate and new eye.

The Academy of Art SF show did not fail to impress in this manner. Work showed a sense of fun. Forms stayed rather traditional and classic, with a strong nod to the past. Heather Howard’s collection dominated in this manner, with long, draping coats with the prim collars and strong swing of the 1920′s and depression era (and reminiscent of the direction of Marc Jacobs previous season).

Textile exploration was definitely the star of the night, most notably the knitwear work of Scott McFarland and organic and experimental pieces by Qianya Martin. Scott’s menswear was a welcome relief from the streamlined, subtle knits that have been dominating the market – his large, chunky hand-knit cardigans, knit pants and caps had a tactility and “big-ness” that felt confident and even sexy – a large accomplishment in big knits.

Where Scott’s work went with a strong step, Qianya’s work was an easy lope – inspired by the beach, her collection maintained a neutral palette and played on fabric effects that took their cues from the movement of sand and dunes. Fabric effects can often be a sticky field – delve too deeply, and the holistic style of the garment may be shelved. Qianya’s sensibility in this field is exquisite – effects and form perfectly married in a garment that feels both beautiful, captivating and comfortable.

I had the pleasure of visiting backstage before this event, and asking the designers to discuss their collections in their own words:

Scott McFarland

Qianya Martin

Heather Howard & Cat Janky

I-Shan Liou & Myoung Hee Kim

Emily Melville & Ivanka Georgieva

More Photos Here: